If I have learned anything from the few bits of travel I have been able to do in the past 3 years, it’s that travel is overrated. We love to post our blue passports at the airport, the amazing food we’re indulging in, our unforgettable nights out, etc. In short, only the highlights of our travels are shared. This, however, is misleading, failing to paint the realities of just how crappy travel can be.
There’s adjusting to foreign foods, certain cultural customs, a painful language barrier, and just good old homesickness. To be completely honest, I’m not very homesick. If you remember from post 1, coming to Nairobi was an escape for me. Of course I miss my family and friends, but that goes without saying.
But if there’s anyway to cope with being in a new place, it’s about creating routines and developing new favorites. I thought I’d share one of my new favorites: riding matatus.
Matatus
On the topic of creating new routines, matatus have been integral. What is a matatu, you might ask?
Matatus are privately owned minibuses that are known for their vibrant exteriors, loud music, and questionable driving. Matatus are the common form of transportation for many Kenyans as they are relatively inexpensive and get you from point A to B in a nick of time. I often say that I prefer matatus to Ubers as they are the only transportation I’ve seen successfully finesse Kenyan traffic. And they’re cheaper.
A bit of history on these lil buses. They’ve been around since the 1960s, being imported secondhand from Japan but apparently coming to prominence in the 1980s and 1990s. Matatus are owned and controlled by SACCOs, government-registered companies in Kenya. There are over 600 SACCOs registered in Kenya.
The matatu labor system is quite fascinating, as the SACCOs will rent the cars to the drivers and conductors to work a given route. The driver is responsible for the gas and fees paid to the conductor. Any extra profits are given to the driver at the end of the day.
So, given the parameters to actually make ends meet, this informs the quite hectic behavior of the matatus.
The vans themselves are legally only supposed to fit 14 passengers. But conductors will bend the rules in order to up the profits. Often times you’ll find matatus filled to the brim before they head off to their destination, again to maximize profits. This, however, can be quite inconvenient for passengers in a rush, especially at low-peak times. If you get to a matatu, and it isn’t full, best believe you’ll be sitting in it until it fills up before any movement occurs. As a result, I’ve concluded that there is no estimating the matatu schedule. The precariousness will drive you insane. If you are traveling during peak times, however, you can expect to do a lot of pushing and shoving to claim a seat on one of these bad boys. There are no such thing as manners when it comes to getting into a matatu during rush hour.
But yes, for the economic breakdown, matatu drivers and conductors want to end the day with money in their pockets. This means developing certain tactics like playing music to attract passengers, or even heckling you and practically pulling you into their cars to fill space. Yes, the latter has happened to me.
Now a matatu can cost you anywhere from 10 to 200 shillings depending on location, destination, and hour of day. My fare rounds out to be 50 to 60 shillings a day which equates to 50 or 60 cents. So for me, Penny Pincher Polly, matatus are a cheap way to get around the city.
As I’ve mentioned, this low cost does come with some strings attached. For one, matatus don’t work on your time, but theirs so be prepared to exercise the utmost patience. Second, it’s not a very comfortable ride. They are extremely tight spaces, especially if you’re crammed in the back or sitting right on top of the engine (in that case it is a very hot ride). Personal space does not exist on these things. There’s also been complaints about women being sexually assaulted due to the close quarters, so yay!
Air conditioning does not exist so your best bet is to try and pry one of the windows open without it falling out. Oh right, I forgot to mention that these cars are not in the best shape. At all. The interior is not your brand new Tesla by any means. And the exterior…..well I guess that’s why so many of them have been spray painted with eye catching designs.
Another string to be wary of is the driving. Every time I get in a matatu I am practically risking my life. Matatus take reckless driving to a new level. I’ve seen drivers turn two way lanes into three, drive against oncoming traffic, cut people off, and move through spaces not even a bike could fit through. If you are a backseat driver, a matatu is no place for you. You will waste your breath trying to get these men to change their ways. And they won’t.
But like I say, this is all apart of the cultural immersion. I continue to put my life in the hands of matatu drivers and I’ve left every ride unscathed. Let’s hope this good fortune continues!
Thank you for tuning in!
the final sixteen 